Stalked: Tessa Packard, Jewellery Designer.

29 September 2014

When I stumbled across Tessa's jewellery a while back I couldn't help but do a double take at a certain collection called the Predator. A collection inspired by those dreaded evil bugs that attack us all while we're happily drinking our Pimms in the summer, yes the wasp!! I caught up with Tessa to talk jewellery and her love affair with fashion.

What do you do and what do you love about your work?

I am a London-based fine jewellery designer specialising in bi-annual collections and bespoke commissions. Running a jewellery brand perfectly compliments my character: half of me is unstoppably creative while the other half of me is a workaholic and very much business minded. I also relish the opportunities and challenges that being an entrepreneur bring. Any goal is achievable but it requires patience and I prefer to work with the long-term in mind rather than strive for immediate gratification.

What has influenced your approach and what is your wasp collection all about?

Before I started my brand I worked for several years in the commercial art world specialising in Impressionist and Modern art as well as (what was then) the burgeoning Latin American Art market. For me, theme and narrative are of utmost importance when it comes to designing jewellery, and I would say that the significance I give to this is very much influenced by - or derived from - the idea of the ‘curated’.

In a sense, I have always been interested in the interdependent relationship between adorned and adornment - the sentimental, totemic, historical or emotional ties we have with jewellery. My wasp collection, or Predator / Prey as I have called it, aims to explore the conscious nature of jewellery - the symbiotic power-play or interaction between the animate and the inanimate. Whilst worn the wasp is the ‘predator', brought to life by the wearer; yet when removed it becomes the ‘prey’, beholden to the wearer, for without human contact it is nothing but lifeless metal.

It's almost expected that designers sell online these days, is this the way forward for new designers?

Whether or not you favour selling online or in person it would be a grave mistake in this day and age to underestimate the power or online retail, or for that matter ignore it altogether. Yes, I think it is probably expected that young designers should be accessible on the web, whether through their own website or a second-party retailer, but I don’t think that online retail is necessarily the only viable method. Personally, I far prefer face-to-face selling - it is for want of a better word ‘human’ and more personal, much more interesting and provides invaluable feedback. I can’t even begin to imagine working on a bespoke commission without having ever met the client in person - it just wouldn’t work! I also think that if you are working in the luxury market you must be able to offer your clients that little bit extra and client-designer relationships are everything.

How would you define your personal style and approach to fashion?

My personal style is eclectic but timeless. I don’t follow trends and I only buy what I like, not what I think I should have. I think my approach to designing jewellery is very similar. I only design what I feel is missing from my own jewellery box, never what anyone else wants, and I certainly never design with a trend in mind. Fine jewellery is not about ‘fashion’ - it’s about innovation, design integrity and beautiful materials.

If you had to live in an up and coming fashion capital, what would it be and why?

My Brazilian roots would argue Sao Paulo is very much making waves. It’s a truly extraordinary city with the most vibrant restaurants, art galleries, nightlife and burgeoning fashion scene. As the import / export tax complications slowly begin to relax I think we will see a real growth in talent and continued international impact. But for the moment, London is certainly the capital of the fashion world and long may that continue!

Do you have any other creative pursuits apart from jewellery design?

I continue to be passionate about art - whether it be collecting, visiting exhibitions and art fairs or following emerging artists. Secretly I would also love to be a stylist, features editor or contributing writer for a major editorial magazine. Collaborations with other brands are another avenue I would love to explore, and the ultimate dream would be to one day have a concept store that showcased everything in my head - from my favourite artist to the best of British craftsmanship and design.

Her angry hedgehog, Tessa loves taxidermy!

Where do you shop and where do you eat in London?

I love the Shop at Bluebird as well as Dover Street Market, Zara, Stella Jean, MSGM and Penelope Chilvers for all-round perfect boots. Food wise I adore the Indian restaurant Gymkhana, Oliviomare for fish, Fino’s sensational tapas, Poule au Pot for the best, romantic french fries and the new Ramusake in South Ken.